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How to Replace an audi connect key G28 Engine Speed Sensor
Charles the Humble Technician shows you how to replace the G28 Engine Speed Sensor. This sensor is located near the edges of the transmission just above the flywheel ring gear. It sends a signal to the ECU via the grey wire (T55/49) which is then sent to the tachometer in the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
Located on the edge of the transmission, above the flywheel ring gear the G28 Engine Speed Sensor sends an electrical signal to ECU pin T55/49 through a grey wire. The ECU uses this information to control fuel and boost. It also sends an alert to the G5 Tachometer in instrument cluster.
The sensor serves as a reference point to connect with the G40 Camshaft Position Sensor. The ecu must be aware when the crankshaft is TDC and the location of the camshaft so it can activate spark and injectors accordingly.
If this sensor fails the ECU will throw the P00160 error, which means the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft are out of sync, possibly indicating chain stretch or audi Key copy a jumped link on the upper timing chain. However, the error code won't appear on its own without additional information from other sensors (G4 and G40).
It's a bit tricky to test since there are several connector pins, and each one has different functions. The best way to do it is by measuring the resistance between the ECU and the sensor. When the sensor is functional, it should read around 1000 ohms. Examine for signs of coolant, Audi Key Fob Replacement or oil in the connector bay if you are experiencing problems with this part.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, when accelerating from highway paytoll at full speed I noticed a massive decrease in power. It was like the engine had run out of gas. Or, my injectors were not firing. Today, i pulled out the spark plugs. Three were soaked with gazoline and the 4th one was dry. I put a piece of tissue over each injector hole, and when I start the engine without sparks, the ones with gazoline jump out. The 4th one stays closed. I inspected the ground connection on ECU pins 14/55, 30/55 and 48/55. I get zero ohm. I think the issue is elsewhere.
I also tried to reset the PID but with no luck. The car will start if the G28 is unplugged and runs fine when it is plugged in however it has intermittent misfire issues at higher RPM. The coolant sensor (G62), even if it is not plugged in, shows temperatures of -49c. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bar while the actual pressure is zero.
I don't know what to do. I believe that I've eliminated everything else. But i am afraid I may have missed something. If anyone has suggestions, please share them! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump in the g28 gets a signal from the RPM sensor. The GM-style transmitter is the same as the G4 and both function in the 80 100 200, UrS and RS2 cars which is why you can easily locate one at a salvage yard or at a parts store. It is easy to test them - simply put your DMM into resistance mode and measure the distance between pins 1 and 2 (with the bump at the connector's end facing upwards). They must be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
Our 20vt turbo (3B, AAN, ABY and ADU) engines are equipped with an ECU that must know the speed and position of the crankshaft to make a decision about timing of the fuel injector, for example. It uses a Crank Position Sensor G4 and an Engine Speed Sensor G28 to accomplish this. If either of these goes bad you will get codes on the diagnostic scanner which can lead to engine shutdown.
A damaged G28 sensor can cause an inaccurate gearbox speed counter or a gearbox that shifts faster than normal, and/or a misfire while in the gear. If you are experiencing any of these issues, it is likely that your sensor is failing and requires replacement. The good news is they are very affordable and readily available particularly if you're looking at an Bosch unit like ours. Alternately, the GM version of this part is also a good option.
5. Tachometer
A damaged engine sensor could cause a myriad of issues in your vehicle. It's an essential component of the Audi remote Key's transmission because it communicates to the ECU about how the audi car key's crankshaft is turning. This sensor can cause the transmission to malfunction and other components in the car to be affected.
The G5 engine sensor is located at the outskirts of the transmission, just above the flywheel ring. It sends a signal via a gray wire to the ECU pin T55/49. The ECU uses this signal to regulate the amount of fuel and boost, and also to timigrate. It also transmits it to the G5 Tachometer in instrument cluster. You can check the sensor for any failure by checking the continuity between it and the tachometer. You can also check continuity between ECU pin T55/49 and the instrument cluster connection via pin T6a/1 (trace [79trace [79]) as well as between T6a/1, and the instrument cluster pin T26a/12. You should detect the resistance to be around 1000 ohms in these areas. This is a typical part that is found across the audi a3 spare key 80, 100 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC until the 1997 UrS AAN and 1995 RS2 ADU. Good ones might be availble in wrecking yards.
Charles the Humble Technician shows you how to replace the G28 Engine Speed Sensor. This sensor is located near the edges of the transmission just above the flywheel ring gear. It sends a signal to the ECU via the grey wire (T55/49) which is then sent to the tachometer in the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
Located on the edge of the transmission, above the flywheel ring gear the G28 Engine Speed Sensor sends an electrical signal to ECU pin T55/49 through a grey wire. The ECU uses this information to control fuel and boost. It also sends an alert to the G5 Tachometer in instrument cluster.
The sensor serves as a reference point to connect with the G40 Camshaft Position Sensor. The ecu must be aware when the crankshaft is TDC and the location of the camshaft so it can activate spark and injectors accordingly.
If this sensor fails the ECU will throw the P00160 error, which means the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft are out of sync, possibly indicating chain stretch or audi Key copy a jumped link on the upper timing chain. However, the error code won't appear on its own without additional information from other sensors (G4 and G40).
It's a bit tricky to test since there are several connector pins, and each one has different functions. The best way to do it is by measuring the resistance between the ECU and the sensor. When the sensor is functional, it should read around 1000 ohms. Examine for signs of coolant, Audi Key Fob Replacement or oil in the connector bay if you are experiencing problems with this part.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, when accelerating from highway paytoll at full speed I noticed a massive decrease in power. It was like the engine had run out of gas. Or, my injectors were not firing. Today, i pulled out the spark plugs. Three were soaked with gazoline and the 4th one was dry. I put a piece of tissue over each injector hole, and when I start the engine without sparks, the ones with gazoline jump out. The 4th one stays closed. I inspected the ground connection on ECU pins 14/55, 30/55 and 48/55. I get zero ohm. I think the issue is elsewhere.
I also tried to reset the PID but with no luck. The car will start if the G28 is unplugged and runs fine when it is plugged in however it has intermittent misfire issues at higher RPM. The coolant sensor (G62), even if it is not plugged in, shows temperatures of -49c. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bar while the actual pressure is zero.
I don't know what to do. I believe that I've eliminated everything else. But i am afraid I may have missed something. If anyone has suggestions, please share them! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump in the g28 gets a signal from the RPM sensor. The GM-style transmitter is the same as the G4 and both function in the 80 100 200, UrS and RS2 cars which is why you can easily locate one at a salvage yard or at a parts store. It is easy to test them - simply put your DMM into resistance mode and measure the distance between pins 1 and 2 (with the bump at the connector's end facing upwards). They must be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
Our 20vt turbo (3B, AAN, ABY and ADU) engines are equipped with an ECU that must know the speed and position of the crankshaft to make a decision about timing of the fuel injector, for example. It uses a Crank Position Sensor G4 and an Engine Speed Sensor G28 to accomplish this. If either of these goes bad you will get codes on the diagnostic scanner which can lead to engine shutdown.
A damaged G28 sensor can cause an inaccurate gearbox speed counter or a gearbox that shifts faster than normal, and/or a misfire while in the gear. If you are experiencing any of these issues, it is likely that your sensor is failing and requires replacement. The good news is they are very affordable and readily available particularly if you're looking at an Bosch unit like ours. Alternately, the GM version of this part is also a good option.
5. Tachometer
A damaged engine sensor could cause a myriad of issues in your vehicle. It's an essential component of the Audi remote Key's transmission because it communicates to the ECU about how the audi car key's crankshaft is turning. This sensor can cause the transmission to malfunction and other components in the car to be affected.
The G5 engine sensor is located at the outskirts of the transmission, just above the flywheel ring. It sends a signal via a gray wire to the ECU pin T55/49. The ECU uses this signal to regulate the amount of fuel and boost, and also to timigrate. It also transmits it to the G5 Tachometer in instrument cluster. You can check the sensor for any failure by checking the continuity between it and the tachometer. You can also check continuity between ECU pin T55/49 and the instrument cluster connection via pin T6a/1 (trace [79trace [79]) as well as between T6a/1, and the instrument cluster pin T26a/12. You should detect the resistance to be around 1000 ohms in these areas. This is a typical part that is found across the audi a3 spare key 80, 100 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC until the 1997 UrS AAN and 1995 RS2 ADU. Good ones might be availble in wrecking yards.
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